Fly structure for trousers



J. MARKS 2,236,218

FLY STRUCTURE FOR TROUSERS March 25, 1941.

FilLed Sept. 27, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 E" 4|.- 1n venipr JOsEPH MARKCS,

A itorneys March 25, 1941. J, M KS FLY STRUCTURE FOR TROUSERS Filed Sept. 27, 1.939 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Inventor A iiorneys Patented Mar. 25, 1941 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 6 Claims.

This invention relates to a fly structure for trousers, the general object of the invention being to improve the appearance of the trousers at this point and to enable trousers which are 5 manufactured to sell at low cost to have substantially the same appearance as high priced trousers.

Another object of the invention is to reinforce the trousers at the fly part.

This invention also consists in certain other features of construction and in the combination and arrangement of the several parts to be hereinafter fully described, illustrated in the accoinpanying drawings and specifically pointed out in the appended claims.

In describing the invention in detail, reference will be had to the accompanying drawings wherein like characters denote like or corresponding parts throughout the several Views, and 20 in which- Figures 1 and 2 are views of portions of patterns for cutting the cloth for the improved trousers.

Figure 3 is a view of the upper portion of the material from which the trousers are to be formed out from the pattern of Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a view with the button carrying part of the fly, shown in Figure 3, folded over 30 with a strip sewn thereto, a portion of the strip being broken away.

Figure 5 is a section on the line 5-5 of ure 4.

Fig-

' Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 5 but showing the fly part turned back after having the strip sewn thereto and the pleat also sewn in place.

Figure 7 is a view similar to Figure 6 but showing the parts with the lining strip attached to the fly strip.

Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure but showing the parts after the operations of sewing have been completed and also showing the buttons attached to the fly part.

5 Figure 9 is a view of the upper portion of the trousers material for the buttonhole fly part as cut from the pattern shown in Figure 2.

Figure 10 is a view showing the buttonhole fly part partly folded.

Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 10 but showing the parts completely folded.

Figure 12 is a section on the line 12-12 of- Figure 0.

F ure 3 s a section on the line 13 of Figure 1-1..

Figure 14 is a view similar to Figure 13 but showing the completed parts.

"Figure 15 is a view looking toward the inner portion of the buttonhole fly part.

Figure 16 is a perspective view of the exterior 5 part of the button carrying fly part.

In Figure 1 the upper portion of a pattern A is shown for cutting the right hand portion of the improved trousers and in Figure 2 at B is shown the upper portion of a pattern for cutting the 10 left hand portion of the improved trousers. These two patterns are substantially the same and each is formed with a part a having the two notches a in its upper edge and a slot b separating its curved lower edge from the crotch 15 part of the pattern. The right and left front portions of the material from which the garment is to be formed are cut simultaneously from the pattern, the face or right side of the cloths facing each other and the right front 20 portion is shown at R in Figures 3 and 4 and at F in Figure 9 is shown the left front portion of the cut material. Of course the part R is formed with the fly part I which has the two notches 2 in its top edge and the slot 3 at its bottom, the notches 2 being formed in the cloth by the cutter to guide the operator so that the operator will know where to make the creased fold. As these two. notches are cut through all the material the left front part F also has these two notches as shown at 2 but only one of these notches 2' is used by the operator who uses the second notch from the front.

The part I which will be hereinafter referred to as a flap is folded back upon the major portion R on a'line starting at the first notch 2 from the front to the inner end of the slot 3, shown inFigure 2 and then a strip 4 is placed on the folded part I and the parts sewn together as shown at 6' in Figure 5, the line of 40 stitching starting at the second notch 2 from the front. Then the part I is turned back at the line of stitching 6, as shown in Figure 6, so that a pleat I is formed which is increased in thickness by the strip 4 but if the goods are of con- 5 siderable thickness this strip 4 can be omitted. The lining or binding strip 8 is then attached to the free edge of the flap 1, as shown at 9 and the free edge of this binding strip folded upon itself as shown at In and then the strip 8 is folded rearwardly over the flap l to place the folded edge l0 against the rear portion of the pleat 1 after which the parts are stitched together by the ne of st tch n H as shown in F u e 8- In actual practice the binding strip 8 would 5! probably be first sewn to the flap I, then the pleat formed by folding the material and the strip 8 folded rearwardly and the parts sewn together by a single line of stitching to hold the parts in the position shown in Figure 8. Of course, when this is done the seam 6 will not be necessary as the stitching II would hold the parts of the pleat in position as well as hold the folded edge H] of the strip 8 in position.

This forms the button carrying fly part which is connected with the right front portion R of the trousers by the pleat I so that this fly portion has the same appearance as the high priced trousers which is what is termed in the trade as a cut-off fly and this sewn pleat acts to reinforce the trousers at the fly part. The buttons are sewn to the fly part, one of the buttons being shown in dotted lines at I2 with its threads at I3.

The buttonhole fly part I4 first has its free edge folded over as shown at I5 and then is again folded upon itself on a line from the right back notch to the end of slot 3', the fold taking place rearwardly so that the folded left half (buttonhole side) will measure the same as the right half; in other words, by folding back this half inch, it equalizes the half inch that was used up in making the pleat on the button (right) half of the pants; the point is that both sides of the pants are cut one-half inch too large: the button right side one-half inch is used up by the pleat; the buttonhole left side one-half inch is used up by this one-half inch being turned in before the fly is again turned back upon itself from second notch 2 to slot 3. A separate strip I6 in which the buttonholes have already been sewed (buttonhole fly) on which no patent is claimed, is now stitched on to the turned fly and the parts are stitched together by the stitching I9 as shown in Figure 14, it being understood that the folded fly part I4 is covered by the buttonhole strip I6; and this strip I6, known as the buttonhole fly, in which the buttonholes have already been made, is stitched to the part I4 as shown at I9 and 20, so that each buttonhole 2| is separated from the other buttonhole.

It will, of course, be understood that the improved trousers require a small additional amount of goods to take care of the folded part for forming the pleat which gives the appearance or serve the purpose of a cut-off fly used in expensive trousers.

It is thought from the foregoing description that the advantages and novel features of the invention will be readily apparent.

It is to be understood that changes may be made in the construction and in the combination and arrangement of the several parts provided that such changes fall within the scope of the appended claims.

Having described the invention, what is claimed as new is:

1. The herein described method of forming a button carrying fly part on trousers consisting in cutting the upper front part of said fly portion to provide a flap having a straight edge extending from the upper edge of the front portion to a point above the crotch, with the rest of said edge curving downwardly and inwardly to the crotch, the lower end of the cut forming a slit separating the lower end of the flap from the crotch, then making a narrow exterior fold in the material to form a tuck, the fold lines extending from the said upper edge to the inner end of the slit and then stitching the folded part to retain the tuck in place.

2. The herein described method of forming a button carrying fly part on trousers consisting in cutting the upper front part of said fly portion to provide a flap having a straight edge extending from the upper edge of the front portion to a point above the crotch, with the rest of said edge curving downwardly and inwardly to the crotch, the lower end of the cut forming a slit separating the lower end of the flap from the crotch, then making a narrow exterior fold in the material to form a tuck, the fold lines extending from the said upper edge to the inner end of the slit and then stitching the folded part to retain the tuck in place, said fold lines converging downwardly to the slit to make the tuck of tapered formation.

3. The herein described method of forming fly parts on trousers consisting in placing the goods from which the right and left front portions of the trousers are to be formed, one upon the other with the front faces of the goods contacting each other, then cutting the goods to form the front right and left sections, the upper portions of said sections being cut at one side to provide flaps each having a straight edge extending from the upper edge of the section to a point above the crotch, with the rest of said edge curving downwardly and inwardly to the crotch, the lower end of the cut forming a slit separating the lower end of the flap from the crotch, then making a narrow exterior fold in the material of the right section to form a tuck, the fold lines extending from the said upper edge to the inner end of the slit with the fold lines converging to the slit, then stitching the folded part to retain the tuck in place, then folding the outer edge of the flap of the left section to make this flap of the same width as the flap with the tuck therein, then fold ing the flap of the left section on a line extending from the top of the section to the lower end of the slit therein, the flap being folded inwardly upon the inner face of the section and then stitching a buttonhole strip to the inner edge of the last-mentioned flap.

4. The herein described method of forming fly parts on trousers consisting in placing the goods from which the right and left front portions of the trousers are to be formed, one upon the other with the front faces of the goods contacting each other, then cutting the goods to form the front right and left sections, the upper portions of said sections being cut at one side to provide flaps each having a straight edge extending from the upper edge of the section to a point above the crotch, with the rest of said edge curving downwardly and inwardly to the crotch, the lower end of the cut forming a slit separating the lower end of the flap from the crotch, then making a narrow exterior fold in the material of the right section to form a tuck, the fold lines extending from the said upper edge to the inner end of the slit with the fold lines converging to the slit, then stitching the folded part to retain the tuck in place, then folding the outer edge of the flap of the left section to make this flap of the same width as the flap with the tuck therein, then folding the flap of the left section on a line extending from the top of the section to the lower end of the slit therein, the flap being folded inwardly upon the inner face of the section and then stitching a buttonhole strip to the inner edge of the last-mentioned flap, and forming a pair of notches in the upper edge of each section, the notches of the right section indicating the start of the fold line and the second notch from the front of the left section indicating how the fold line of the flap of this section is to start.

5. In a trousers structure, a fly flap on the trousers integral therewith and folded upon itself at its junction with the trousers to form a tuck extending from the top edge of the trousers to the crotch and tapering toward the latter.

6. In a trousers structure, fly flaps on the trousers and integral therewith, said flaps being of extra width and the flap of the right section of the trousers being folded upon itself at its junction with the trousers to form a tuck extending from the top edge of the trousers to the crotch and tapering toward the latter, the flap of the left section having its outer edge folded inwardly upon itself to make this flap of the same width as the flap with the tuck, the flap of the left section being folded inwardly at its junction with the trousers and a buttonhole strip connected with the folded edge of the last-mentioned flap and stitching connecting the folded edge of the last-mentioned flap with the trousers and stitch- 10 

